🏁🏁 Hot-Rod contest 🏁🏁 Post your ride and WIN!!!!!

[Belle]

“That’s just who you are, who you are, baby”

 

[Phill]

“That’s just who you are, who you are, baby”

here is the winner!!

 

[Tall Deck]

Tall deck. That mercury is such a sleeper. I bet youve surprised many people with that car before. Nice toys bro.

Yes sir. You're exactly right. There were so many traffic lights where I had Mustang boys on side of me, and I smoked em with that car, only to have them roll down their window at the next traffic light with their mouth litterally hanging open in utter amazement, and then saying to me: "what the heck did you do to that thing???? That never got old even though it happened so many times in the 3 1/2 yrs I owned the car. I also smoked a couple 01-02 Z06 Vettes, a number of guys and women in expensive BMW's, and a bunch of Jeep guys too. I don't know what it is about Jeep boys, but several years ago there were so many of them who thought they had something under the hood of their Cherokees, and CJ7's, and none of them would even come close to keeping up with my Marauder once I supercharged it.

And the cops rarely bothered me, because they asll loved that car since it looked like a black cop car with 18" mag wheels and chrome exhaust tips. I never wanted to make people think I was a cop though. I was never some cop-wanna-be with a corny spot-light mounted on the door. And that's why I really liked it when I installed the exhaust headers and hi-perf Magnaflow mufflers on the car, because then the car no longer sounded like a cop car, and I would just need to hit the gas and let off for people around me to hear the growl of the exhaust, and then they would know it wasn't a cop car. The supercharger made very little whine noise, so it was very stealth, which also allowed me to surprise many other hot rodders

 

[Tall Deck]

...........

 

[Belle]

here is the winner!!

Thanks! That’s my baby!


“That’s just who you are, who you are, baby”

 

[stinkfingerdelux]

I have a video of Mrs stink blowing me in the winter. When she picks her head up.. My pecker is steaming... Does this count as a hot rod... If so I'll enter this contest and show yall the steamfingerdeluxe

 

[dale.c]

This is my 1970 Chevy Chevelle SS. Sorry, but it's difficult for me to just choose one pic to show you. I hope you guys enjoy these pics I've chosen to post here. I've been working on this for years now. I installed the engine and the entire drive train myself using the lift and hoist my brother has in his home garage. I had a body shop paint the car and do the body work. I have it running, but I have to install the master cylinder, brake lines, and the new wiring harness. It runs on pump gasoline, ( 93 octane) and is a naturally aspirated engine 632 cid with 802 HP@6,000 RPM and 775 ft/Lbs torque@4,200 RPM with a Lunati solid roller camshaft and has a Holley Dominator 1050 CFM carb and I have a 3.5" diameter mandrel bent full exhaust system that I'll be installing myself, ( it has open headers right now and is VERY loud).

I have drag radials for street driving and I'll be running bias-ply slicks at the drag strip. The car will run high 9 second quarter mile times on pump gas alone when I get it to the drag strip with the front tires off the ground during the starting line launch, (no nitrous oxide injection needed). I expect to turn 1.3 second 60 foot times with it. I installed an aftermarket Dana 60 rear end, and an aftermarket TH400 transmission with a transbrake for drag strip launching. I had to use a cut-off wheel and a sawzall to cut the top of the front cross member part of the frame to fit the engine in this car to avoid cutting a hole in the factory type stock hood. It's been a lot of work. I'll also be installing a 20 gallon fuel cell inside the trunk which has a built-in electric fuel pump inside the fuel cell which will remain submersed in fuel just like the new factory cars have. I have pictures of every aspect of the build, but if anyone wants to see more, then please ask because I didn't want to overwhelm nor bore anyone here with anymore pics than I've already posted here.

Damn brother she’s a thing of beauty !!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tall Deck]

Damn brother she’s a thing of beauty !!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. It was a body-off-frame restoration, (my first). It's been a lot of work. I've taken a long break from it to persue BBing again after a number of years being away from the GYM. it's real tough for me to do both at the same time and still be able to work eight hours a day.

 

[Vision]

This is my 1970 Chevy Chevelle SS. Sorry, but it's difficult for me to just choose one pic to show you. I hope you guys enjoy these pics I've chosen to post here. I've been working on this for years now. I installed the engine and the entire drive train myself using the lift and hoist my brother has in his home garage. I had a body shop paint the car and do the body work. I have it running, but I have to install the master cylinder, brake lines, and the new wiring harness. It runs on pump gasoline, ( 93 octane) and is a naturally aspirated engine 632 cid with 802 HP@6,000 RPM and 775 ft/Lbs torque@4,200 RPM with a Lunati solid roller camshaft and has a Holley Dominator 1050 CFM carb and I have a 3.5" diameter mandrel bent full exhaust system that I'll be installing myself, ( it has open headers right now and is VERY loud).

I have drag radials for street driving and I'll be running bias-ply slicks at the drag strip. The car will run high 9 second quarter mile times on pump gas alone when I get it to the drag strip with the front tires off the ground during the starting line launch, (no nitrous oxide injection needed). I expect to turn 1.3 second 60 foot times with it. I installed an aftermarket Dana 60 rear end, and an aftermarket TH400 transmission with a transbrake for drag strip launching. I had to use a cut-off wheel and a sawzall to cut the top of the front cross member part of the frame to fit the engine in this car to avoid cutting a hole in the factory type stock hood. It's been a lot of work. I'll also be installing a 20 gallon fuel cell inside the trunk which has a built-in electric fuel pump inside the fuel cell which will remain submersed in fuel just like the new factory cars have. I have pictures of every aspect of the build, but if anyone wants to see more, then please ask because I didn't want to overwhelm nor bore anyone here with anymore pics than I've already posted here.

Bro... This is what I'm talking about!
Do you have any more pictures of the project? Definitely post-up more man.. this thing is a absolutely gorgeous!

 

[Tall Deck]

Bro... This is what I'm talking about!
Do you have any more pictures of the project? Definitely post-up more man.. this thing is a absolutely gorgeous!

Yes that is what I thought you were talking about. After all, you DID say "classic" "muscle" cars. I appreciate your interest. I have lots of pics. Here are some more here. I have plenty more also. So if you, (or anyone else) have any curiosity, interest, or requests of specific stages of the restoration, or modification stages of this particular build of mine, which are not displayed in these pics here that I've posted so far, then please feel free to make mention of exactly what you want to see....

I bought the car as a "roller" meaning it had no engine, no trans, but merely an old beat-up factory stock GM 12 bolt rear end axle housing. It had some beat-up ugly white paint with orange/red racing stripes that were a real eye sore......but I had already had it all planned out, that the body would come off of the frame, the frame would be checked closely for any cracks, or rot, it would then be sandblasted, and painted....

 

[Tall Deck]

Through sandblasting, the frame was completely cleaned off to remove all surface rust, and old paint. The frame was in fantastic shape. It had no rotted holes in it at all, which really surprised me since it was the original factory frame which was 40 years old. But this is exactly what I was looking for, because I had already purchased the 800 HP pump gas engine, and I knew exactly what level of power that would be under the hood of this car, and I knew that with that level of power and torque going through the drive train and suspension, it would require a strong frame that wouldn't twist up like a pretzel when I hit the go pedal, (especially at the drag strip starting line).

After they sandblasted the frame, I specified that the frame rail "C" channels be "boxed-in" by welding on extra pieces of mild steel to stiffen up the frame in key places to reduce frame flex. And after that was accomplished, the frame was painted, and new body mounts were installed onto it.

 

[Tall Deck]

As I said, I had already chosen the BIG Block engine that I was going to use for this street/strip project car. He is that engine in these pics. 632 CID (that's 10.3L engine displacement for you metric boys) 4.600" bore, and 4.75" stroke, a "Tall Deck" iron block, with aluminum cylinder heads, featuring 2.30" diameter stainless steel intake valves, 350cc intake ports, 1.7:1 ratio roller rocker arms, and stud girdles. It has a Lunati solid roller camshaft, ( .705"/.708" lift, and 268"/271" duration@.050 lift).

Forged steel Callies crankshaft, Eagle H-beam forged steel connecting rods with L-19 cap bolts, and forged aluminum Mahle flat top pistons which yield a pump-gas friendly 10.5:1 compression ratio. It has an aluminum single plane 4500 Dominator intake manifold, and a 1050 CFM AED Holley Dominator carb...

 

[Tall Deck]

Lemme try this again, (engine pics)...

 

[Tall Deck]

OK, as some of you may know, the largest engine these cars came with from the factory in 1970, were 454 CID which had a 4.00" stroke crankshaft and a standard big block deck height of 9.8" however, this engine has a Tall deck block which has a deck height of 10.2" and a crankshaft stroke of 4.75" which along with a 4.600" bore allows an engine displacement of 632 CID. BUT, the larger 4.75" stroke of the crankshaft, requires the depth of the front of the oil pan, (NOT the sump of the pan, but the front which covers the crankshaft) to be deeper/taller than that required by the factory stock 454 CID 4.00 stroke crankshaft.

Why am I telling you this??? Because this was preventing me from being able to lower the engine down all the way into the engine compartment enough so that i could bolt the engine block by the motor mounts onto the frame of the car, since the front of the oil pan was already bottoming out on top of the front cross member of the frame.

The before and after pictures below show what I had to do to fit this engine in this 1970 Chevy Chevelle of mine. I had to cut out part of the frame. I made the first cuts with an air powered cut-off wheel tool hooked to the air compressor, and then I finished the cutting with a Sawzall reciprocating saw using a bi-metal blade. I drew some lines on the frame cross member with a black marker beforehand to guide my cuts, and they came out pretty straight. You'll see how good and rust-free the inside of the frame is after I cut the piece off the top.

I don't have any welding experience, so I paid someone who does welding work on the side, to come out to where I have the car, and weld four mild steel pieces which I had cut out of a 1/4" thick mild steel sheet that I bought from a local steel place. So the end result was a 1/2" reduction in the frame cross member height, (which is all I needed for oil pan clearence) and restored and surpassed the original strength of the frame in that area.....

 

[jozifp103]

​This is just for fun obviously. I was never a big car guy but my step father was. These are some cars I grew up having in my garage. Here are some of his collectibles/projects. He has several more stashed away in storage units/rental properties. This doesn't even include his bikes, boats, and other toys...

 

[Tall Deck]

I spoke to a professional race car fabricator, and told him that I'm building a street/strip 800 HP drag race car, and he gave me this idea. He explained that the pushing force placed on the frame brackets where the rear upper and especially the rear lower control arms at their front mounting points where they bolt to the frame at my power level, will twist up and distort the brackets themselves, and eventually even the frame rail itself where the mounting brackets are welded onto the frame.

He explained to me that what he does to his customers' drag cars to prevent this damage and frame distortion, is he he boxes-in the frame brackets on all sides onto the frame rails, so that it spreads out the force of the load during the starting line launches which take place during the first couple seconds of each drag race which prevents both the control arm brackets as well as the frame rails where the brackets are welded to, from being damaged over time by distortion from the incredible forces of torque.

In these pics here below, you see the plain rear control arm bracket of the passenger side of my car the way the factory fabricated it back in 1970. It was still in very good shape, but obviously too thin and flimsy to handle 800 HP drag strip launches off the starting line without getting twisted up. Since I had not yet installed the new rear end axle housing into the car yet, and I had the car up on my brother's lift, this was the right time to modify and beef up this factory stock weakness to prepare the car in these areas to survive the hard drag strip launches that it will see with me behind the wheel.

I took the 5 feet by 4 feet 1/4" thick piece of mild steel that I had purchased from the local steel mill, and I placed cardboard templates that had cut-out against the piece of mild steel, and I traced lines around the cardboard templates onto the steel piece, and brought the steel to a local fabricator to cut out the pieces that I needed to box-in the flimsy rear control arm mounting brackets to the frame rails of the car.

I had the welder return, and first I had him put full welds around the edges of the frame brackets since the factory only puts small spot welds on them. Doing this will prevent the brackets from being literally ripped off of the frame rails during the starting line launches. You'll see in the pics that I had taken a drill motor with a sand paper disc and removed the paint around the frame and the bracket to bring everything down to the bare steel where my hired welder would need to weld. These were MIG welds using solid core wire. After the full welds were done, I then had him weld the 1/4" thick mild steel pieces on all four sides of the frame rail to completely box-in the bracket. the only open point is where the lower rear control arm slides into the bracket and bolts to it.

Now, as the force of the axle torque coming from the 800 HP from the big engine under the hood wants to push the rear lower control arms forward during the launch, and rip the mounting brackets right off the frame, the brackets will resist and withstand those intense forces and will remain intact after repeated drag race runs down the 1/4 mile race track. After this was complete on the passenger side as shown in the pics, we did the same to the drivers side bracket too. And then I repainted the areas....

 

[Tall Deck]

Now that the frame brackets where the rear lower control arms get bolted to the car, it was time to beef-up and strengthen the areas where the rear UPPER control arms get bolted to the car. Here are some before and after pics of what I did to the rear cross member of the frame. I had once again used half circle shaped and and triangular shaped cardboard pieces that I cut for templates against the mild steel and traced out 33 shapes onto that same 1/4" thick steel piece I had previously bought. I brought it back to the fabricator, (not the race car fabricator, but the local steel working fabricator) where the 33 pieces were cut perfectly by them using a huge hydraulic sheering press. It cost me $300 for them to cut out the 33 small steel pieces which I would then use as steel gussets to beef-up the rear frame cross member.

I friend I had who was a former drag racer of one of these same type of cars, told me that in these areas of the rear of the frame which had the tendency to get distorted even when a roll cage was used on drag cars. So I boxed-in this entire rear cross member piece of the frame. you can see that I drilled a 1/2" diameter hole for the rear brake line to pass through, for the rear disc brakes. In the first pic you'll once again notice the areas where I removed the paint down to the steel where the MIG welds would need to be placed. I also made the mounting ears where the front ends of the two rear upper control arms are bolted to, three times as thick as the factory made them, so that they will not ever be twisted up.

 

[Tall Deck]

.....and then it was time for me to install the new rear end housing into the car. I needed a new rear end to handle at least 800 HP without flexing the axle tubes during the starting line launches, without breaking teeth on the ring and pinion gears, and without snapping one of the axles either, even during launches with the 30" tall bias-ply slicks that I'll be running at about 13 PSI at the drag strip which will get good traction off the line. he factory stock GM/Chevy 12-bolt rear end would NOT hold up to the demands at this power level time after time. So there was a need for something considerably stronger/more durable.

This new aftermarket rear is a S-60/Dana 60 from Strange Engineering. It's heavier than the stock GM 12 bolt rear, yes. But it comes with 35 spline axles as opposed to the smaller diameter 28-31 spline axles of the factory 12-bolt rear, a larger 9.75" diameter ring gear as opposed to the 8.75" ring gear of the GM 12-bolt rear, and I also chose the 5/8" diameter rear wheel studs option as opposed to the 7/16" GM wheel stud diameter. This rear also came with rear disc brakes.

 

[Tall Deck]

Here's the Ring and pinion gears this new rear end uses compared alongside the smaller ring and pinion gears that the GM 12 bolt rear uses. This gives you an idea of just one of the reasons why this new rear end will handle more power at the track during hard acceleration, than the GM 12-bolt rear would.....

 

[malfeasance]

When you swap to 5/8 " studs, do you have to drill the holes in the wheels to make them larger? If so. how do you keep the holes in the same place when enlarging them?

 

[Tall Deck]

When you swap to 5/8 " studs, do you have to drill the holes in the wheels to make them larger? If so. how do you keep the holes in the same place when enlarging them?

That's a very good question..... The answer is no. Unless you are bent on using your factory stock wheels, or some other wheels which aren't really intended for drag racing, or for street/strip use. These are the wheels that I have. They're Weld Racing, ProStar wheels, and like some other aftermarket wheels intended for street/strip use, they have larger holes for the wheel studs. The wheel holes fit nice and snug over 5/8" wheel studs without any slop. And if you have the factory Ford 1/2" wheel stud diameter, or the factory GM 7/16" diameter wheel studs, then you can still use these wheels, and/or other wheels like these, but then you will just have to use the "shank" style lug nuts that have the pilot, (AKA "shank")on them which slides between the wheel hole inner diameter and the outter diameter of the smaller wheel stud sizes to fill in the gap, (shown in the pic below).

With the larger 5/8" diameter wheel studs like I have in the pic below, you cannot/do not use the special shank lug nuts with the pilot piece, but instead, you need to use the open lug nuts, with washers, or like I recently bought, the open lug nuts with the flanges built into them... (which BTW usually come with the 5/8" diameter wheel studs).... (BTW, these type of larger wheel studs actually usually have closer to an 11/16" diameter where the shanks are, ( the non-threaded part of the stud where the aftermarket street/strip wheel holes slide over them) and the threaded part of the studs where the lug nuts thread onto are 5/8" diameter. So some brands list them as 11/16" and some list them as 5/8" but they're basically 5/8" studs with an 11/16" diameter shank....

 

[Augustine5I]

1964 Shelby Cobra...not mine. But IMO tops in this department.

 

[Tall Deck]

Here are the drag radial tires I'l be running on the street. I can deflate them a little to 17 PSI to use them at the track too, but they won't hook as well off the line as the bias-ply slicks will. So I'll stay with the slicks at the track to avoid tire spin. These are 10" wide wheels, and the tires are 11.5" wide. I ordered the wheels with a 5.5" back spacing to move them inboard as much as you can with these cars, in order to fit the widest possible tire inside these wheel wells. Among Chevelles, the 70-72 years have the most room in the rear wheel wells for rear tires without having to tub them out.

I had the body guy roll the fender lips back, but it still wasn't enough for these P315/60/15 tires, so with the car on my brother's lift, I VERY carefully used a solid two-hand grip on my air powered cut-off wheel and cut the fender lips off. This was a little gutzy on my part to be doing this AFTER the car was already painted since one wrong slip, and I would've screwed up the paint job. But they came out alright. it looks a little ratty here, but keep in mind that this pic is without the chrome wheel molding piece screwed back on. So after altering the wheel milding pieces, I can screw the chrome molding back on, and it will look nicer than it does here.

I typically run these type of drag radials on the street at about 24-25 PSI, and they provide better straight line traction than standard radial tires do, but they do wear a lot faster like many Pirelli rand tires do, since they have a softer rubber compound. So you usually won't get more than 10K miles out of these tires on the street, and less than that if you start doing burnouts. But if you happen to get caught in the rain, you really have to drive like a granny, especially on the highway, because they're really dangerous in the rain due to having much less tread depth than standard radial tires do. Especially if you hit a puddle. they really hydroplane easy. so you have to drive very slow. It's best to watch the weather report closely, to try and avoid the rain all together.

 

[Tall Deck]

Here's the open type of muffs I have for the car. Obviously they won't be super quiet LOL. But not as loud as you might think either. I've used these before on other cars I've had. They have a perforated pipe which runs through the center of the case that allows free-flow exhaust to pass without robbing horse power, with a type of stainless steel wadding stuffed inside the case and wrapped around the outside of the perforated inner pipe to muffle excess noise. They're sort of the best of both worlds. They get a little loud when you stand on the loud pedal, sure. But not so loud while you're cruising around, and without excessive flutter, popping during deceleration, without lots of the dreaded "cabin-drone" that would drive your ears crazy at 2,000 RPM engine speeds.

And they're sure more quiet than the open headers are that I have now....

 

[Tall Deck]

1964 Shelby Cobra...not mine. But IMO tops in this department.

That's a very nice looking one. Those cars are usually very loud, ( a nice loud!) due to the short side pipes they usually have. They're also very light, usually weighing only 2,500 LBS with a 427 cid engine. The original knock-off type wheels look really cool, but to me are a little scarey since you tighten the center wing nuts by hitting them with a mallet. A buddy of mine was working on one, and it had the wingnuts safety wired so they cannot loosen while you're driving.

Have you ever sat in one of these cars? IDK about the original ones, (which you won't see many of since they're worth lots of money, and the guys with 6 figures into cars like that usually don't even drive them. but I sat in a replica kit-car one, (which most of them are) and it looked cool, but it was scarey just to sit in it!!! the dashboard looks like cardboard, (very flimsy) and there is so little room in the interior, that the gas pedal is right directly in front of you instead of being off to the right side, and the brake pedal is way off to your left hand side because there isn't much room for the pedals because the trans tunnel takes up most of the room of the floorboard. I didn't get the chance to drive the car, but I really don't think that I would want to. yes, they look cool, but they're death traps. Just sayin. Not hatin' on your dream. like i said, they DO look cool. I never seen them on the drag strip though. I doubt they would even be allowed on there unless there were lots of specific modifications done for safety. A guy i work with has a replica that he bought for $50K. The thing sounds really nice!!!

 

[Augustine5I]

That's a very nice looking one. Those cars are usually very loud, ( a nice loud!) due to the short side pipes they usually have. They're also very light, usually weighing only 2,500 LBS with a 427 cid engine. The original knock-off type wheels look really cool, but to me are a little scarey since you tighten the center wing nuts by hitting them with a mallet. A buddy of mine was working on one, and it had the wingnuts safety wired so they cannot loosen while you're driving.

Have you ever sat in one of these cars? IDK about the original ones, (which you won't see many of since they're worth lots of money, and the guys with 6 figures into cars like that usually don't even drive them. but I sat in a replica kit-car one, (which most of them are) and it looked cool, but it was scarey just to sit in it!!! the dashboard looks like cardboard, (very flimsy) and there is so little room in the interior, that the gas pedal is right directly in front of you instead of being off to the right side, and the brake pedal is way off to your left hand side because there isn't much room for the pedals because the trans tunnel takes up most of the room of the floorboard. I didn't get the chance to drive the car, but I really don't think that I would want to. yes, they look cool, but they're death traps. Just sayin. Not hatin' on your dream. like i said, they DO look cool. I never seen them on the drag strip though. I doubt they would even be allowed on there unless there were lots of specific modifications done for safety. A guy i work with has a replica that he bought for $50K. The thing sounds really nice!!!

Yeah...you could get one for like 124K.

Never have sat in one tho.. just looks like a beautiful car.

 

[Vision]

Yeah...you could get one for like 124K.

Never have sat in one tho.. just looks like a beautiful car.

I would kill myself in that thing..

 

[Augustine5I]

I would kill myself in that thing..

You know the pussy you would get with that fucking thing? That is truly a pussy getting car...

 

[Milford King]

My dad had a bunch of 70’s muscle cars, mostly mopar, when I was a boy.
I really like his amc javelin (looked similar to the pic but white in color)

 

[Vision]

You know the pussy you would get with that fucking thing? That is truly a pussy getting car...

Just park it and let them come to you. Effortless!!