aenergy
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Dont mean to hijack this but same subject sooo...What's your thoughts on slins. For the past 2 weeks I have been using 29g 5/8 to pin delts pecs and quads. On my delts I get a little pip always after but it's not in the pin sight always a inch or 2 down. Is the oil migrating due to gravity and not getting into the muscle?? I bury it so its probably at 3/4 in. Thoughts?I just recently had the same thing on my right glute..I did 1.5mL in both left and right glutes and VG's, and only my right glute has a but of a lump and pip.. this happens from time to time.. it's the nature of the Beast . People can speculate and give all sorts of hypothetical scenarios and instances but if it just happens to the one side with the same compound you basically just had a bad injection..
My suggestion give that area a break for a little while, at least a couple weeks.. alternate your injection sites and try to keep the volume size down. I'm a sensitive dude with anything over 2mL, therefore 1.5 is tolerable in my glutes/VG's with almost no indication that I had injections..
Dont mean to hijack this but same subject sooo...What's your thoughts on slins. For the past 2 weeks I have been using 29g 5/8 to pin delts pecs and quads. On my delts I get a little pip always after but it's not in the pin sight always a inch or 2 down. Is the oil migrating due to gravity and not getting into the muscle?? I bury it so its probably at 3/4 in. Thoughts?
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Yes I’m with you on the 25’s vs 23’s, it made a huge difference especially pinning something every day. I have a bunch of 1” & 1 1/2” pins and 5ml barrels I just screw the needle into this way I can use a fresh pin after drawing, but really need 20 to 22 ga for drawing. That’s what I was going to say about the 27ga, I don’t have the patience to draw through a 27 seeing 25 takes long enough already.I use 25s how much of a difference from the 25 to the 27 gauge. When I first started I used 23s and there is a noticeable difference between the 23s and the 25s.
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How's the 20 and 22 for drawing? I'm using an 18g to draw and noticed a small piece of the top floating in the oil, luckily it was grey so I could see it. Some of my gear has clear tops so that could be problematic.Yes I’m with you on the 25’s vs 23’s, it made a huge difference especially pinning something every day. I have a bunch of 1” & 1 1/2” pins and 5ml barrels I just screw the needle into this way I can use a fresh pin after drawing, but really need 20 to 22 ga for drawing. That’s what I was going to say about the 27ga, I don’t have the patience to draw through a 27 seeing 25 takes long enough already.
i have not placed an order to get any yet, I was thinking of getting 18ga until I read your post about the rubber breaking off in the needle. Some of my vials I go into almost every day so anything over 22ga would probably cause it to break off.How's the 20 and 22 for drawing? I'm using an 18g to draw and noticed a small piece of the top floating in the oil, luckily it was grey so I could see it. Some of my gear has clear tops so that could be problematic.
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i have not placed an order to get any yet, I was thinking of getting 18ga until I read your post about the rubber breaking off in the needle. Some of my vials I go into almost every day so anything over 22ga would probably cause it to break off.
But that one time is enough to give me pause.
i have not placed an order to get any yet, I was thinking of getting 18ga until I read your post about the rubber breaking off in the needle. Some of my vials I go into almost every day so anything over 22ga would probably cause it to break off.
Yeah now that I run all BCG it’s thin enough to use 25ga, your right though it’s really not that bad and doesn’t take that much longer. And I do swap out the tip every time too, makes pinning that much easier.I personally use 25g to draw and pin. I'll swap the tip before pinning so its fresh. Heating up the oils prior makes it pretty easy to draw with the 25. It may take an extra 30 seconds if anything
I use 18's and I use 20's.. it really depends on the quality and the type of the stopper.. if it's the hard clear rubber silicone Which is far and few in between I'll use an 18..
But, if its the common autoclave resistant "rupture resistant" bromobutyl stoppers then I use a 20g.. but if they are Lyophilization Stoppers I will use a 23 or even a 25, this way to avoid leakage, breakage and so on.. you can normally tell after the first extraction if it's a low or high end stopper... Unfortunately I have seen a lot of domestic sources over my years use some pretty low end quality stoppers that would just fall apart, degrade and even leak, and the sources would go as far as making claims that the hermetical sealing machine needed to be recalibrated.. don't give me that shit it was crimped by hand and the stoppers were shit..
i never really thought about the difference in the stoppers, everything I have has the grey rubber so I guess that’s a good thing.
Or you can go this route when you expect to use more from the same vial.. these things are neat and handy...
Vial Adapter 20mm "Vial spike"
Gain compatibility and convenience while reducing the risk of cross-contamination & Rubber Stopper damage..
These 20mm vial spikes can be reused multiple times, fits firm and snug (Universal) to all 20mm vials..
No more need for changing drawling pins, swabbing and multiple puncturing to your rubber vial stopper..
How it works:
1) Swab vial top with alcohol solution, let air dry and attached vial spike.. That simple!
2) Connects to needle lure/barrel like most needle tips. It allows for multiple use.. Set and forget..
Or you can go this route when you expect to use more from the same vial.. these things are neat and handy...
Vial Adapter 20mm "Vial spike"
Gain compatibility and convenience while reducing the risk of cross-contamination & Rubber Stopper damage..
These 20mm vial spikes can be reused multiple times, fits firm and snug (Universal) to all 20mm vials..
No more need for changing drawling pins, swabbing and multiple puncturing to your rubber vial stopper..
How it works:
1) Swab vial top with alcohol solution, let air dry and attached vial spike.. That simple!
2) Connects to needle lure/barrel like most needle tips. It allows for multiple use.. Set and forget..
I like this.... Would be perfect for jugs
Now I remember seeing these somewhere, but didn’t really think about using it
I use either 22 or 23 for drawing. 23 is annoying in the winter when it's colder in the house (I hear with wood stove only) but at room temp it's fine. 22g is a little faster. I never use anything larger anymore because of the stopper cutting problem. I still have that problem with 22g on really cheap stoppersHow's the 20 and 22 for drawing? I'm using an 18g to draw and noticed a small piece of the top floating in the oil, luckily it was grey so I could see it. Some of my gear has clear tops so that could be problematic.
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