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Bottle top filters

bigmills

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Get Shredded!
I was interested in switching from a Nalgene bottle top filter to a whole glass bottle top filter that I can switch up the paper filters on instead of having to order the huge 500ml bottle top filters every time. I found one I'm looking at but, I just wanted to know if anyone had any experience kind of filters? Any feedback is always appreciated. thank you.
c851545250d52f2f38803a06aa072fca.jpg


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I know a guy who uses 90mm porcelain Buchner funnels and loves them.. he also has some smaller porcelain filters for 100mL batches and under. He uses glass microfiber filters. .22um.. easy breezy
 
Buchner filters are the way to go as long as you can properly sterilize it. You save alot of money compared to traditonal bottle top filters. I clean my in an alcohol bath then put into my autoclave prior to use.
 
Someone help me on the properr setup that keeps oil from slipping past the filter. I'm spent hours trying to sort this out.
 
Someone help me on the properr setup that keeps oil from slipping past the filter. I'm spent hours trying to sort this out.
What kind of unit do you have? Can you post up a pic?

These types of filters are really easy to use, if you can post up a setup of how you are putting it together, I can def. tell you if it is user error or a junk funnel/filter support.

The more specs you can provide on brand of funnel/fiter/type, etc. the better.

As with all lab glassware, the saying buy cheap buy twice, applies here.
 
I have Corning for media bottles and I have Nalgene top and bottoms set units. I just want a good glass set up that will use glass fiber filters. I don't like plastics especially when I use EO. Chemical resistant or not, glass is safer and cheaper.
 
Here is a great instructional video. Pay attention to the fact that he does not touch the filter disc. The filter membrane itself acts as a "gasket". If you have a stainless filter support instead of an integrated glass fritted support, the assembly order from bottom to top would be holder>gasket>Stainless support screen>filter. Also note how he breaks the vacuum free at the end of the run, this is to prevent any suck-back that would occur when the vacuum pump/aspirator is turned off.

 
I have Corning for media bottles and I have Nalgene top and bottoms set units. I just want a good glass set up that will use glass fiber filters. I don't like plastics especially when I use EO. Chemical resistant or not, glass is safer and cheaper.


What I'm saying is I don't know enough to have made the purchase yet, so if someone can point me in the right direction I am all ears.
 
I have Corning for media bottles and I have Nalgene top and bottoms set units. I just want a good glass set up that will use glass fiber filters. I don't like plastics especially when I use EO. Chemical resistant or not, glass is safer and cheaper.
Any membrane filter funnel like this would do what you want. I would personally look for one using a glass support, like in the video above. And a filter size of 47mm, they are very common and the membranes for filtration can easily be found. Nylon or PTFE would work great using any of the solvents we care to.
 
Store suggestions? Amazon has a lot of bad quality and high quality and deciphering them is not clear.
 
IML Gear Cream!
I've bought from this company before and am very happy with their glassware. For the price, they have a good value. Much cheaper than more expensive brands, but still good enough quality to last a long time.



https://www.chemglass.com/product_view.asp?pnr=CG-1420

If you get this from them you would need the " complete filter assembly" and the "filter flask" item listed. This filter support has a fritted glass support and metal clamp. The filter capacity is 300ml, and the flask is a 1L flask. This is probably the one I would go for, unless I found a better brand used on ebay. Something by Pyrex, kimble, kontes, pretty much any listing that has a brand name, and not "china" listed as the source.

Here is a good, farily cheap source for 47mm membrane filters:
http://www.neobits.com/cole_parmer_...ntid=9569886&gclid=CL3MkoChhNMCFciNswodFNAH3g
 
If you find a listing somewhere you want me to check out, post it up, I'll be glad to offer my opinion.
 
If you find a listing somewhere you want me to check out, post it up, I'll be glad to offer my opinion.
Hey Brother I was wondering if 47 mm with the largest size filter they made in diameter? Also how would you go about sterilizing these?

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The 47mm is the most commonly used size, making finding filters easier. A 47mm filter should be good for filtering at least a liter, probably more. Then you run into issues of finding a large enough receiver flask. Using a 300ml filter and a 1L receiver, you just keep the funnel full so that it doesn't suck any air until you have filtered all of your material. Running batch sizes of 1L should be more than sufficient for most home/ugl operations.

As for sterilizing them, you would assemble the filter support, funnel, and clamp with filter installed and autoclave the whole upper assembly as a unit.
 
The 47mm is the most commonly used size, making finding filters easier. A 47mm filter should be good for filtering at least a liter, probably more. Then you run into issues of finding a large enough receiver flask. Using a 300ml filter and a 1L receiver, you just keep the funnel full so that it doesn't suck any air until you have filtered all of your material. Running batch sizes of 1L should be more than sufficient for most home/ugl operations.

As for sterilizing them, you would assemble the filter support, funnel, and clamp with filter installed and autoclave the whole upper assembly as a unit.
Thank you brother,but how would you go about sterilizing you're one 1000ml media bottles?

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I've thought about using one of these with membrane filters, but they are pretty expensive and it would take quite a few syringe filters to equal the cost of one of these.
 
Thank you brother,but how would you go about sterilizing you're one 1000ml media bottles?

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Either dry heat, or ethanol wash. We've talked about this before, but without a flow hood, any of these operations will still expose a sterile surface to environmental contaminants.

All things considered. It is very difficult to beat the sterility of sealed vials, and a syringe filter for filling them. The only way any other method comes close is when used in conjunction with a flow hood. And, even then, the only need for using this method is with larger batches.
 
Either dry heat, or ethanol wash. We've talked about this before, but without a flow hood, any of these operations will still expose a sterile surface to environmental contaminants.

All things considered. It is very difficult to beat the sterility of sealed vials, and a syringe filter for filling them. The only way any other method comes close is when used in conjunction with a flow hood. And, even then, the only need for using this method is with larger batches.
I know I cannot get it perfect without a flow Hood but with 1000 ml glass media bottles, the closest way to getting them sterilized would be wash with soap and water to get old oil out, And soak 70% isopropyl alcohol. And bake in the oven 400 degrees for 1 hour. However where I'm stuck is the plastic caps for the media bottles since they cannot go in the oven?

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With the bottles and caps, I'd just do an ethanol rinse, then let them dry. If you have a pressure cooker, they double as an autoclave. You could put the media bottle, with cap on, in there and do a 15psi for 15min run. You only really need to do 250 degree in the oven for about 20min. That allows 5 min for the bottles to come up to temp and 15 min for the heat do to it's killing thing. At that temperature, if we are talking about standard media bottle lids, if they can handle being autoclaved, they can handle a dry heat run at the same temperature. If you are talking about what I posted a pic of below, standard GL45 caps, autoclaving and dry heat sterilization runs would be fine. These media bottles were designed for use with brewing and sterilizing cell culture media in mind.

For example, the hybex brand GL45 caps that medlabsupply sells, standard caps are good to 140c(284F) and the red hi-temp caps are good to 180c(356F). So either one would do in a standard autoclave(250F). What brand are you using?

hybexreplacement-cap-colored-10-pk-bmkf10267_2141_500x500_1_6.gif
 
With the bottles and caps, I'd just do an ethanol rinse, then let them dry. If you have a pressure cooker, they double as an autoclave. You could put the media bottle, with cap on, in there and do a 15psi for 15min run. You only really need to do 250 degree in the oven for about 20min. That allows 5 min for the bottles to come up to temp and 15 min for the heat do to it's killing thing. At that temperature, if we are talking about standard media bottle lids, if they can handle being autoclaved, they can handle a dry heat run at the same temperature. If you are talking about what I posted a pic of below, standard GL45 caps, autoclaving and dry heat sterilization runs would be fine. These media bottles were designed for use with brewing and sterilizing cell culture media in mind.

For example, the hybex brand GL45 caps that medlabsupply sells, standard caps are good to 140c(284F) and the red hi-temp caps are good to 180c(356F). So either one would do in a standard autoclave(250F). What brand are you using?

View attachment 27111
I am using the exact ones You just posted. 1000ml hybex glass media bottles.. I was looking at a autoclave however I do not think the 1000ml media vials will fit in one. I really need I can't seem to find one for less than $100 is a decent vial rack for 10 mL vials.. any suggestions?

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Get Shredded!
I use a tall presto brand pressure cooker that has a gauge on it. It will go up to 20psi. It is tall enough to fit standard half gallon canning jars standing upright in it. I think the cost was around or just under $100 when I bought it years ago.
 
I use a tall presto brand pressure cooker that has a gauge on it. It will go up to 20psi. It is tall enough to fit standard half gallon canning jars standing upright in it. I think the cost was around or just under $100 when I bought it years ago.
So basically if you buy a pressure cooker there is no need for an autoclave? Is doing the same thing correct? Could you also sterilized 10ml vials and rubber stoppers in a pressure cooker?

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As for a vial holder, I'd use something like this with a little modification such as drain holes in the bottom:
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...d=0ahUKEwjUvK-6nZnUAhUo1oMKHaa7BNEQ8wIImQMwCA

https://gnarlygorilla.com/mtm-caseg...lack-st1240/?gclid=CPOZxPadmdQCFdS4wAodNXEArg

I saved a lab I worked for a ton of money with storing HPLC vials until the reviews have been cleared by using 45ACP reloading boxes to hold a run of 1ml vials. MUCH cheaper than any dedicated lab specific setup.

You have to be creative with some of this stuff.
 
So basically if you buy a pressure cooker there is no need for an autoclave? Is doing the same thing correct? Could you also sterilized 10ml vials and rubber stoppers in a pressure cooker?

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They are the same thing. Just one comes with fancy circuitry and is NIST certified. You can sterilize anything that is autoclavable, which is pretty much anything we have any use for.
 
They are the same thing. Just one comes with fancy circuitry and is NIST certified. You can sterilize anything that is autoclavable, which is pretty much anything we have any use for.
Hey Brother I see on that guy's beige he has cellulose acetate filter paper is that what you use or do you use nylon? because I did see my alarm on another site. I don't think they make pvdf filter membranes for these do they?

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Cellulose acetate has limited resistance to BA, and shows limited resistance to many esters. Nylon would be the best all round choice for price vs compatibility. PTFE would be the best option, but at a much higher price. Yes, they make PVDF at this size, I just can't find any that are cheaper or as cheap as the nylon ones I posted above.
 
Cellulose acetate has limited resistance to BA, and shows limited resistance to many esters. Nylon would be the best all round choice for price vs compatibility. PTFE would be the best option, but at a much higher price. Yes, they make PVDF at this size, I just can't find any that are cheaper or as cheap as the nylon ones I posted above.
Definitely that makes sense brother..

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Phil, thanks for all of the info. I consider myself pretty knowledgeable with this stuff but you are on a different level. I've always used dry heat at 400 degrees to kill off any nastys. Running dry heat at 250degrees is news to me. Thanks so much for the info!
 
Phil, thanks for all of the info. I consider myself pretty knowledgeable with this stuff but you are on a different level. I've always used dry heat at 400 degrees to kill off any nastys. Running dry heat at 250degrees is news to me. Thanks so much for the info!
It depends on what tables you look up for how long this is to be done. You're best bet is always to heat to as high as a temperature as the material will allow, if using dry. Better yet, is steam autoclaving at 15-20psi. Kinda splitting hairs with some of this stuff, though.
 
I'm thinking a separation funnel and a board drilled to hold vials is the easiest, cheapest most steril way to fill vials with a hood.
 
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